Sunday “Morn’n Morn’n” Trini-Style

How quickly new becomes norm.  . .  Our Sunday morning routine, for example. It came about as a form of penance. One Sunday morning we decided to pay for our night before indulgence with a hike up Lady Chancellor Hill, a long, shady, winding road rising up from the city of Port-of-Spain. 

It’s named for Lady Sylvia Chancellor who “was born the year Queen Victoria died”, 1901. From what I could dig up, Lady Sylvia was a philanthropist who lived and died in England, so I have no clue why the hill is named for her, except that her obituary said she was a “tough” old bird and her hill, 3.2 k long with an ascent of 600 feet from base to look-out, is a “tough” old hill.

On a clear morning the view from the look-out is spec-tac-u-lar!

On a clear morning the view from the look-out is spec-tac-u-lar!

It has to be way early Sunday, don't ya know, for the road through St. James to be this empty.  

It has to be way early Sunday, don't ya know, for the road through St. James to be this empty.
 

On the drive to "the Hill"—either to fortify himself and/or postpone the impending punishment—Curtis pulled up beside a road-side stand in St. James selling “doubles.”

Vendors wake in the wee hours to cook up a batch of curried chickpeas and fry up stacks of bread for the day. 

Vendors wake in the wee hours to cook up a batch of curried chickpeas and fry up stacks of bread for the day. 

Popular doubles vendors will have a crowd around. "One for here, one for take-away" and they sell out early.

Popular doubles vendors will have a crowd around. "One for here, one for take-away" and they sell out early.

Doubles sauces include mango, shado beni (a green sauce made from a cilantro-like herb), tamarind, and pepper sauce, if desired (I like it “slight” meaning a dash, Curtis likes more)

Doubles sauces include mango, shado beni (a green sauce made from a cilantro-like herb), tamarind, and pepper sauce, if desired (I like it “slight” meaning a dash, Curtis likes more)

Wrapped and twisted in wax paper, my doubles ready to take-away

Wrapped and twisted in wax paper, my doubles ready to take-away

Doubles is? are?* hands down and dripping with sauce, the most popular Trinidadian street food. A "doubles" is a curried chickpea sandwich, really, but so much more: a shot-put sized round of flat bread, called “bara” is topped with a dollop of curried chick peas, splashed with sauces, and a second “bara” is placed on top.

According to Wikipedia (my go-to source for quick info) “Doubles was invented in Princes Town, Trinidad by “Emamool Deen (a.k.a. Mamoodeen) and his wife Rasulan in 1936.” They started by topping a single round of bara with curried chickpeas. However, customers would ask them to “double the bara, hence the name ‘doubles’ evolved” 

We bought a couple of doubles (2 for $8, about $1.30 U.S.) drove part-way up the hill to the Horticulture Society parking lot, sat on the edge of a planter, gobbled down our doubles, then hiked the hill.

The next Sunday we did it again. And now it’s “what we do.”

While we walk/climb/creep up Lady Chancellor, because  "Trinis", Trinidadians,  we pass, regardless of age or how winded, calls out “Morn’n Morn’n!” or “Guh-day! Guh-day” always two times—doubles—we do that too.

“Morn’n Morn’n!

* Is they is or is they are? My friebor Brian pointed out that doubles singular or plural is still doubles